Jewellery, Watches and Objects of Vertu

A mid 20th century ruby, emerald and diamond ring by Cartier, composed of three bombé hoops pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds, each highlighted with a circular-cut ruby or emerald, to a reeded hoop, mounted in platinum, signed ‘Cartier Paris’, French assay marks, maker’s mark ‘SCA’, numbered 012794, cased, total diamond weight approximately 5.00 carats, ring size L. £5,000-£7,000

The jeweller and designer Jeanne Toussaint was appointed Director of Fine Jewellery at Cartier in 1933. Under her direction designs became more three-dimensional and sculptural; often oversized and colourful, the jewels brought a playfulness not seen in the structural and geometric designs of the Art Deco. In particular, it was her exploration of unusual cocktails rings that was celebrated globally in luxury fashion magazines of the time. In 1947 the cover of Harper’s Bazaar featured four bombé Cartier rings and heralded this ‘new altitudinous dimension for a ring and the hand that wears it’. These bold cocktail rings became iconic of the era and continue to feature in Cartier collections today.