Jewellery, Watches and Objects of Vertu

An American early 20th century Art Nouveau sapphire, peridot and enamel brooch by Marcus & Co., fashioned as a delicate foliate spray with plique-à-jour enamelled leaves, the arching design mounted with sapphire and peridot bead ‘fruits’, mounted to textured gold branches, reverse stamped ‘MARCUS & CO 18K’, dimensions 42 x 55mm, length 43mm. £2,000-£3,000

Marcus & Co.
Herman Marcus (1828-1899) was born and raised in Germany and began his jewellery career at the court jewellers Ellemeyer in Dresden. In 1850 he emigrated to New York, first finding work with Tiffany & Co., then later with Ball, Black & Co., before going into partnership in 1864 with Theodore Starr. The company traded under the name of Starr & Marcus until 1877, when Herman returned to work for Tiffany & Co. In 1884, he joined his son William in business with George Jacques, the company trading as Jacques & Marcus. After Jacques’s retirement in 1892, the company was renamed Marcus & Co. and within a few years, his second son George joined the family business.

Marcus & Co. continued to rise in profile. In 1897 the firm exhibited over 40 pieces in the Society of Arts and Crafts in Boston. Herman’s time in Dresden had taught him technical skills of craftsmanship including plique-à-jour enamelling, and around the turn of the century, some of the firm’s finest work incorporated the use of these delicate translucent enamels in their Art Nouveau flower jewels, often using the so called ‘neglected’ gemstones in their work - such as chrysoberyl, zircon, tourmaline, opal and peridot. In 1899, Herman died and his two sons continued the business, working in the Art Nouveau and Arts and Crafts styles which remained popular in America as late as the 1920s, as well as keeping in touch with emerging fashions.

In 1939 Marcus & Co. were one of only five jewellers to exhibit their jewellery designs in the ‘House of Jewels’ at the New York World Fair alongside Tiffany & Co., Cartier, Udall & Ballou and Black, Starr & Frost, showing the high level of prestige with which their jewellery was regarded. The Second World War proved too challenging a time for the company, and in 1941 the firm was sold to Gimbells, the department store, which merged in 1962 with Black, Starr & Frost.

Today, Marcus & Co. are considered one of the outstanding early 20th century American jewellers.