Jewellery, Watches, Silver and Objects of Vertu

A boulder opal and gem-set pendant by Andrew Grima, 1984, the cabochon emerald and brilliant-cut diamond surmount suspending a polished boulder opal cabochon drop, mounted in 18ct gold, signed ‘GRIMA’, maker’s mark ‘AJ.Ltd’, London hallmark, length 5.5cm. £2,000-£3,000

Andrew Grima (1921 - 2007) was born in Rome to Italian-Maltese parents. Raised in London, he studied mechanical engineering at the University of Nottingham and during World War II, joined the Royal Engineers and served in Burma. After the war he started working in his father-in-law’s London jewellery firm. From 1951, when his father-in-law died, Grima took over the business, selling it to a gemstone dealer in Knightsbridge on the condition that he stayed on as a designer.
Entirely self taught, his limitless imagination led him to create bold and striking designs – each piece being hand wrought, and typically only creating one of each design. In 1960 Grima’s talent was spotted by the Art Director at Goldsmiths’ Hall, Graham Hughes, who introduced his protégé to many of the rich and famous people who were to become his clients. In 1966 his success was sealed when Prince Philip chose one of his pieces, a stunning ruby brooch, as a present for the Queen, 1966 also being the year that Grima received his royal warrant. In the late 1960s he opened his exclusive gallery in Jermyn Street, Mayfair – the opening event being hosted by Lord Snowdon, then married to Princess Margaret, and his reputation continued to grow, attracting a clientele of royalty and society jet-setters of the day.

Winner of numerous awards for his contribution to the jewellery industry, including the Duke of Edinburgh Prize for Elegant Design in 1966, and the De Beers Diamonds International Award – he won it 13 times (more than any other jeweller) – today Grima is recognised as being one of the great modernist jewellery designers of the 20th century.