PREVIEW: JEWELLERY, WATCHES, SILVER AND OBJECTS OF VERTU: 10 SEPTEMBER

Acquired by Van Cleef & Arpels in 2012, Péry & Fils was founded by Lucien Péry in 1875 and later established its business in Place Vendôme in Paris. Among other distinctions, it became known for the Passe-Partout convertible clip/necklace/bracelet, as well as the ZIP necklace.

Among its designs dating from c.1960 was the emerald necklace, bracelet and ear clip suite offered in this sale with an estimate of £10,000-15,000. The necklace has a series of interlocking ropetwist knots, the front suspending a fringe of emerald cabochons, the ear clips set with similarly-cut emerald cabochons and the bracelet with circular-cut emeralds. All the parts come with French assay marks, the bracelet and necklace with maker’s mark. The suite will surely be a highlight of the sale to look out for.

 

Two engaging panther brooches are included in the sale, The first, modelled as a prowling cub, decorated in black enamel and with diamonds spots, carries French assay marks, as well as an indistinct maker’s mark. The diamonds total approximately 4.75 carats and the brooch is estimated is £3,000-5,000. A very similar enamelled panther cub brooch, in an almost identical stance, but not diamond set, makes an ideal companion, and bears Spanish marks.

Diamonds feature strongly in the auction, as expected, and will include a number of fine quality line bracelets. A classic Art Deco example, c.1925, by Chaumet, mounted in platinum, is estimated to fetch £3,000-5,000.

Presented in its original Garrard & Co. Ltd fitted case, a stylish Art Deco emerald and diamond pendant, set throughout with vari-cut emeralds and diamonds, is another quality piece to watch out for. The principal old brilliant-cut diamond surmount to an articulated row of cushion-shaped stones leads to a suspended square-shaped lattice drop below. Held by a fine oval-link chain, mounted in platinum, the 35mm long pendant has a total diamond weight of around 1.50 carats, and comes with hopes of £3,000-4,000.

Stand-out lots in the Watches section of the sale include a rare, limited edition stainless steel diver’s SuperOcean 42 wristwatch created by Breitling to commemorate the Coronation of King Charles III.

It was made for those serving as part of, and closely associated with, the ‘Royalty and Specialist Protection’ Unit (RaSP), as part of a limited production run of 189 pieces. The specialist Unit provides close protection to members of the British Royal Family, Government Ministers, including the Prime Minister, and visiting Heads of State.

The dial displays the King’s cypher and the case back is engraved with the Coronation Emblem which pays tribute to The King’s love of the natural world. The centre seconds hand also has a purple tip – a colour synonymous with Royalty. 

Signed to the case, dial, movement and bracelet, it comes with its warranty card, swing tag, travel pouch and presentation case, and is offered in this sale with an estimate of £5,000-7,000.

At the same estimate comes a gold rectangular Cartier Tank wristwatch, with a London hallmark for 1941. Signed to the dial, it is 34.5mm long and 22.5mm wide.

The Cartier Tank was created by Louis Cartier in 1917, inspired by the military tanks used on the Western Front in World War I.