REVIEW: JEWELLERY 29 NOVEMBER

Andrew Grima (1921-2007) is recognised today as one of the greatest modernist jewellery designers of the 20th century. His post-war jewellery from the 1960s and ’70s continues to attract top prices at auction.

His bold and striking designs, each piece being hand wrought, displayed a boldness and confidence when created, that continues to shock and delight his audience. The revival of interest in Grima’s jewels, seen over the last decade, continues to grow.

A fine example of his work appeared in Noonans’ 29 November Jewellery auction. This 18ct white gold and diamond dress ring, designed in 1972, encapsulates the continuing attraction of Grima’s jewellery – incorporating his signature textured surfaces, the matt white gold ‘paving stones’ set with a step-cut and two brilliant-cut diamonds to form a daring and eye-catching group, mounted to an angular-shaped shank.

The ring, with full London hallmark, stamped with the maker’s mark ‘AG.Ld’, and signed ‘GRIMA’, had this essential combination of marks desired by the top buyers. The three diamond highlights weighed approximately 1.50 carats, 1.05 carats and 0.70 carat respectively, the ring offered for sale with a signed maker’s case and pouch. Estimated at £5,000-£7,000, the bidding was fiercely competitive, with the hammer falling at £10,000.

Grima’s Stepping Stones Collection of 1973 included a similarly designed 18ct gold yellow articulated bracelet, incorporating the use of irregular abstract textured ‘stones’, as seen in this ring.

“Recapturing the luxury and style of the jet set of the 1960s and ’70s is very much in vogue,” says Noonans’ Head of Jewellery, Frances Noble. “Grima does this brilliantly with his dramatic designs. He had the enviable talent of turning flights of fancy into reality for his prestigious clients.”