PREVIEW: JEWELLERY, WATCHES, SILVER & OBJECTS OF VERTU: 12 MARCH

Four highlights of antique and modern jewellery promise to bring combined bids of more than £100,000 to lead the Jewellery sale on 12 March.

An early 20th century Sri Lankan yellow sapphire pendant and pair of yellow sapphire earrings, cased by retailer O. L. M. Macan Markar of Colombo.

 

Oduma Lebbe Marikar Macan Markar opened a jewellery and gem dealing business in 1860 in the New Oriental Hotel at Point de Galle, the main port for ships in Sri Lanka at that time. Business flourished and the firm moved to Colombo, when the main port of call for ships moved from Galle Harbour to Colombo Harbour.

The jewellers set up business in the Grand Oriental Hotel, the most prestigious hotel in Ceylon during the Colonial period. Their clientele included highly placed British Colonial officials, the British nobility and members of the Royal family including the Prince of Wales, later Edward VII, who visited Colombo in December 1875, and the Duke of York, later George V.

During his visit in 1901, the Duke of York viewed the exhibition of gems especially displayed in the King’s Pavilion in Kandy and made purchases from O. L. M. Macan Markar, complimenting the firm on their “excellent collection of gems”. In 1922 Edward VIII as Prince of Wales, was also a client.

“O. L. M. Macan Markar had the most spectacular collection of gemstones and regularly exported the finest examples to the London and Paris markets,” says Noonans’ Associate Director and Head of Jewellery Frances Noble.

The cushion-cut yellow sapphire in this auction weighs 15.60 carats, and is in a claw setting, suspending a triple knife-edge mounted drop below, set with a larger cushion-cut yellow sapphire, and weighing 32.66 carats. The whole is on a fine trace-link back chain, mounted in gold, the conforming earrings similarly set with yellow sapphires, weighing 3.59 carats and 3.25 carats. The estimate is £20,000-30,000.

The pendant and earrings were acquired by Edith Hartley, most probably during the period when her husband Charles Hartley was Head Master of Royal College, Colombo, from 1903-1919.
They come to auction by descent through the family.

Noonans are building an enviable reputation for offering show stopping solitaire diamond rings, and another example stands out here: a brilliant-cut diamond, weighing 5.30 carats, in a four claw setting, mounted in 18ct gold. The ring is expected to sell for £24,000-£30,000.

Also offered in the sale is a diamond dress ring, the cut-cornered modified brilliant-cut diamond, weighing 5.01 carats, claw set within a two-row surround of brilliant-cut diamonds, between tapered baguette and brilliant-cut diamond shoulders with an estimate of £20,000-30,000.

A stylish gem-set necklace and ear clip suite, c.1980, completes the four pieces. The necklace is set throughout with emerald, sapphire and ruby cabochons, each within a lozenge or circular-shaped surround set with brilliant-cut diamonds. The front suspends a similarly set detachable drop of chandelier design, the ear clips en suite. The total diamond weight is approximately 14.00 carats.
The suite has a guide price of £10,000-15,000.